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Q&A (20 Questions?)
1) Has this technology
been proven yet?
This technology has been in use for many years and has
proven itself in NASCAR, Formula One and the Aerospace industry. These filters
have been in use in the off road motorcycle world for over 5 years.
Manufacturers like Yamaha have supplied their own version of it. The KTM
factory guys have even been buying them for their own bikes (even though they
can’t legally endorse the product). In other words this is not a new idea, just
a new application of proven technology. And of course, we run these filters on
our personal bikes, street and dirt.
2) What kind of materials are
used in this filter?
The filter housing and filter element end caps are
carved out of a solid chunk of 6061T6 billet aluminum, which not only looks
trick but aids in dissipating heat. The filter element is made from laser cut,
medical grade, type 304 stainless steel micronic
filter cloth to provide unmatched protection against oil contamination and
resultant engine damage. A super strength nickel-plated neodymium rare earth
magnet is installed in the top of the element for magnetic pre-filtering of the
oil. The adhesive used in the filter assembly process is good to 600 degrees
Fahrenheit, far above the normal operating temperature of 180 to 230 degrees.
The quad-ring gasket doubles the seal between the filter housing and the engine.
3)
How does the actual filtering process work?
Our spin on units feature Magnetic Prefiltering as
the oil passes by the magnet prior to flowing into the filter. The stainless
steel filter cloth then filters the oil to an “absolute” 35 microns.
4) How does this type of filtration compare to paper
filters?
We
sent three common brands of paper filter material off to have them tested for
the smallest and largest sized particles that would pass through the material.
We sent the material off with no names, just numbers for identification so the
lab wouldn’t have any idea who’s filter they were
testing. The results we got back showed that the smallest particle the three
would catch ranged between 9 and 20 microns. The LARGEST particle the three
would allow to pass through the material ranged from 56 to 300+ microns. Paper
filters are rated on an average of what they will let pass, so each of these
three would each be rated at numbers that are somewhere between their individual
extremes. The medical grade stainless steel cloth that we use is rated at an
absolute 35 microns, meaning nothing larger than 35 microns should pass
through the material. This “absolute” rating is important because this type of
filter material is also used in medical applications like blood filtration.
Bottom line is paper is rated differently than the stainless cloth (average vs.
absolute), and either one works to filter stuff out of your oil. Personally I
like the idea of keeping the big stuff out of the engine.
5) What Are
Microns?
A micron is one thousandth of a millimeter. That’s
approx. .00003937 inches. 35 microns is
about .00138“, (just over one-thousandth of an inch).
The lower limit of visibity to the human eye is about 40
microns.
Pollens range from about 30 to 50 microns
A white blood cell is about 25 microns
6) How much oil will this filter flow?
A very important dimension of oil filters to keep in mind
is the flow rate. A one inch square of our filter material flows 1.9 gallons of
oil per minute at only 1 PSI pump pressure (70 degrees F). This means our S1
filter is rated at 57 gals/minute!
7) How does the flow rate compare to paper filters?
We have run static pressure tests between our filters and
paper filters (for an identical application). The stainless steel
micronic filter flowed a
consistent 7.8 times more oil for the same time period than did the paper filter
(tests were run at 68 degree ambient temperature). Think about your bike during
cold startup… nice thick cold oil, trying to get through that oil filter. We
have read tests that reported multiple instances of oil going through the bypass
valve during cold startup because of the resistance of the paper oil filter to
passing the cold oil. Now think about all the crud that has had a chance to
settle to the bottom of the oil pan right where the oil pickup is…. just waiting
to go through the bypass valve directly to the engine components! If the oil
doesn’t get to go through the filter material it doesn’t matter what the micron
rating is.
Another thing that could affect the paper filter is
moisture. When paper gets wet it swells and may pass even less oil. Not
everyone is aware that engines get condensation in them.
8) Why the “take apart” design? Racers and motorheads have been taking their oil filters apart for ages. Our filter makes it much easier than cutting apart messy paper filters. It is a great way to get early signs of what is happening in the engine. By checking the particles that get caught in the filter you can identify abnormal wear and prevent catastrophic engine failure. It’s a lot less aggravating to replace a rod bearing that’s starting to go, than to be standing next to your machine staring at that same rod sticking out the side of the engine!
9) I have a high pressure oil pump. How much pressure
will the aluminum filter take?
An S1 filter was pressure tested to 1500
psi with only slight deforming of the
spirol lock and housing. Let us know if you need
more than that.
10) Is this filter environmentally friendly?
With the cleanable reusable design you no longer will be
sending oily paper filters to the landfills (some states don’t even allow oil
filters to go to the landfills… they must be go to through special, expensive
disposal processes). What does come out of the reusable filter can be sent to
the recycling center with the rest of your old oil.
11) What
are Bypass Valves?
We
have disassembled/dissected several of each of the more popular steel cased
paper filters (Honda, HiFlo, Harley,
Ducati,
Fram). Each oil filter we have dissected has had a bypass valve,
as does ours. The bypass valve allows oil to bypass the filter material if the
engine needs more oil than the filter can pass (in case the filter material gets
plugged or can't flow the oil fast enough). See “Flow Rates” above for related
discussion.
12) Why don’t you have an Anti Drainback Valve?
Many filters have a rubber flap over the intake
holes that is an attempt to keep oil in the filter and minimize the time it
takes to fill the filter when you start the engine (they call it an anti-drainback
valve). A test you can perform to see how well this "valve" works is to fill a
filter with oil, plug the large center spin on hole with a bolt, lay it on
it's side and then see how long it takes for the oil
to drain past the rubber flap. We have found (and have read other published
tests) that the filter eventually ends up with the same amount of oil in it as
if it didn't have the flap, it just takes longer to drain out. If the flap
worked as planned it would be beneficial to have the extra oil in the filter at
startup. On the other hand, that flap covering the intake holes is one more
obstacle the oil has to get by to get through the filter and back to the
motor.... something to think about.
13) How much oil does this filter hold?
Slightly more or less than the stock filter depending on the specific
application. It doesn’t really make any
difference. Continue to use your manufacturer’s perscribed
method of checking to make sure there is the proper amount of oil in the engine
(usually via a dipstick).
14) Where is the filter made?
Proudly made in the
15) My old filter wrench won’t fit
the aluminum filter. How do I remove the filter?
We’ve included
a trick Strap Wrench with each spin on filter. The wrench is also great for a
variety of other uses. For example, try using it to hold a fork leg when
removing it from the triple clamp.
16) What if I accidentally ruin the filter element (I stepped on mine…)?
Not to worry… individual replacement parts are available.
17) How do I clean the filter?
Wash the stainless steel filter element in clean solvent,
kerosene, aerosol carburetor cleaner or any other degreasing agent; even common
dish soap and water. Clean any remaining metal particles from the magnet on the
top of the filter element. If inspection of trapped debris is desired, flush the
particles into a clean container. Once clean, lightly blow air through the
filter from the inside out to remove any small particles or cleaning agent from
the screen. Clean the inside of the filter housing using the same type of
cleaner as used on the filter element.
18) How often should I clean the filter?
We recommend
the filter be cleaned frequently when first purchased or when engine work has
been performed. This will give you a feel for how much debris is being filtered
out of your machines oil and help you decide how often you want to clean the
filter for your application. At minimum, clean the filter with every oil change
due the additional debris this superior filter will be keeping out of your
motor. Remember, oil is the lifeblood of your motor, keep it clean!
19) Will this filter affect my warranty?
No. Under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, 15 U.S.C. SS 2301-2312 (1982), and
the general principles of the Federal Trade Commission Act, a manufacturer may
not require the use of any brand of filter unless the manufacturer provides that
item free of charge under terms of the warranty. So, if you are told by a
dealer that anything other than a specific brand of filter will void your
warranty, ask for the statement in writing (you won’t get one), and request that
filter be supplied free of charge. If you are charged for the filter, the
dealer will be violating the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act and other applicable
law. This is a federal law and the Federal Trade Commission has authority to
enforce it, including obtaining injunctions and orders containing affirmative
relief. For more info do an internet search on
“Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act”.
20) What bikes do these filters fit?
We currently have
applications for Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha,
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